Je brzo ráno, ještě tma a dva lidé zimomřivě podupávají na autobusové zastávce na Hvězdě pod Pradědem. Zase já a Jirka v horách. Zimních horách.
Ráno u Ovčárny nám chvíli trvá připnutí sněžnic a z ranního šera se začíná tvořit zlatavě jasný den, inverze, mraky v hloubce pod námi. Do hor!
Stoupáme k Petrovým kamenům hlubokým sněhem, obloha se jasní a začíná zářit, u bílých, namrzlých skal pozorujeme východ zářícího slunečního kotouče, rudý plameňák vzlétl nad Beskydy. Ano, mezi bílými hřebeny Karpatských pohoří a Jeseníky leží v údolích clona mraků, ale hory vypadají vzdáleny sotva na dosah ruky. Traverzujeme na sněžnicích Vysokou holi a jdeme se podívat nad Velký kotel - asi nejaktivnější lavinový svah v Jeseníkách. Nebe už je seversky modré a zasněžené smrky vypadají jako kusy ledu - Arktida, zářivá Arktida. Oči přecházejí ze záře tisíců sněhových krystalů, nohy se boří do prachových závějí. Od Kotliny jdeme po hřebeni, je tady vyšlapaná cesta a tak si sundáme sněžnice, ale za několik krátkých slunečních kilometrů je máme zase na nohou a scházíme z hřebenů směrem k Františkově myslivně - do nitra nejodlehlejší části Jeseníků. K hoře nazývané Mravenečník. Krátký hřebínek, na kterém leží právě Františkova myslivna a prales Bučina, spojuje horskou skupinu Mravenečníku (Dlouhých strání) a hlavní hřeben.
Jdeme lesy, kde jsou snad jen stopy sněžnic (ale nejen našich) a stoupáme vzhůru až na vrchol Mravenečníku, odtud obdivujeme strmé a hluboké doliny pod Pradědem (třeba Divokáč:) a vidíme další dva "sněžničáře", kteří se škrábou strmým svahem k přečerpávací elektrárně Dlouhé stráně - futuristickému jezeru na vrcholu hory. Jdeme tam také. Strmý val kolem přehrady připomíná minialpské svahy a nevidíte nic než svah a oblohu. Sněžnice kloužou. Za chvíli jsme nahoře, u jezera a ledový vítr nás zahání zase do nižších horských poloh. Zase bez sněžnic - na cestu přímo dolů se nehodí. Sbíháme svahy, ale i opatrně slézáme nejstrmější místa. Nakonec jsme si vybrali cestu průsekem, který shora vypadal schůdně, ale změnil se v ledopád a když jsme opatrně oblézali rampouchy a skákaly kolmé stupně do sněhu , tak se kolem nás valily miniaturní lavinky prašanu jako říčky - sněhopády. Ale přálo nám štěstí, trefili jsme místo, kde silnice, na kterou jsme chtěli slézt, nebyla vystřílená do skály a šly přelézt i zátarasy proti padajícím kamenům.
Na asfaltce jsme vytřepali sníh z rukávů, kapucí i kapes, přioblékli se a za veselého smíchu a obdivování okolních strmých scenérií(tady jsou Jeseníky nejstrmější) se vydali vstříc Divokáči - Divokému dolu.
Pod Divokáčem jsme zjistili, že Kamenná chata (seník) u ústí doliny už neexistuje. Prostě zmizela (vyhořela?), takže s nouzovým spaním se tady nedá počítat. O kousek výše, kde ještě dopadaly sluneční paprsky, jsme pojedli a hned nás rozklepala zima. Pořád bylo kolem 10 stupňů mrazu, musíme jít. Krátící se den a strmící se kopec nás donutily vydat se odtud přímo na Praděd a už nezkoušet lézt na obří skaliska nad dolem, kam mimo jiné vede nejdelší jesenická ledová lezecká cesta. Hřebeny byly ještě ozářené sluncem a tak jsme se v hlubokém sněhu (i když prošlapaném) a do kopce pěkně zpotili. Pak jsme produpali kolem svátečních běžkařů u Pradědu a když slunce zapadlo za inverzi, vydali jsme se zase volným terénem k Sokolím skalám.
Když jdete na sněžnicích na povrchu sněhu a občas se propadnete do kleče nebo borůvčí, tak se pěkně rozplesknete. Tohle se nám tady dělo často. Ve vyšším lese jsme nemohli stále natrefit na žádnou cestu a tak jsme se prodírali korytem potoka a svítili novými čelovkami. Nakonec jsme došli až k Sokolí chatě, kde jsem už kdysi byl, a zjistili jsme, že na její půdě se dá v suchu přespat. Ale noc byla ještě mladá...
Hodili jsme sebou a sestupovali dál údolím, přelezli bránu nějaké snad obory a octli se v horské vesničce Vidly. Chvíli jsme zkoušeli stopovat, ale kvůli zimě současně šli dál. Po asfaltu směr Bílý Potok. Zastavilo jediné auto - plné, ale zajímali se o nás, jestli něco nepotřebujeme. Hodným lidem zasílám dík:). Pak už jsme nestopovali, protože jsme nevěděli jestli Bílý Potok třeba není už za zatáčkou. Z Bílého Potoka jsme šli ještě pár krátkých, ale už unavených kilometrů do kopce na obří převis - skalní bivak Kraken. Po dvanácti hodinách chůze nás přijal a my se vydali na dřevo, rozhořeli oheň a začali roztápět rampouchy a vodu zmrzlou v petkách na čaje a polévky. Po půlnoci jsme ulehli do spacáků a ani mrazivá noc nás nevzbudila.
Druhý den jsme se ráno rychle sebrali a vydali se vstříc cestě a teplu. Strmý průsek na skalní město Chambre verde nás rozehřál, lezení na zasněženou skálu také. Odtud šli vidět špičaté vrcholky nějakých hor na Slovensku. Medvědí vrch je spolu s Mravenečníkem další opuštěná hora, tady jsme nemohli chybět. A už skoro domácí Orlík, hluboký sníh, vítr a chlad. A slunce, slunce. Nejkratší cestou na Rejvíz, sněhu ubývá, první lidé od Pradědu. Z Rejvízu stopem až domů. Do sprchy a namazat spálený nos. A o horách zase snít ve škole a dívat se na modravé hřebeny na dosah ruky. Mé hory. Hory lidí, kteří v nich chtějí být. A ani mráz jim nevadí.
Inverze a Beskydy a nějaké jiné, špičaté hory v dáli. Plameňák se chystá vzlétnout.
Jitřní, fialový Praděd. A Jirka - u své nemilované věže.
Slunce, Beskydy, záře. Mrazivé ráno. Baterky ve foťáku víc nevydržely Bylo to na ně moc krásy najednou...
Mávám z hor!
Přihlásit se k odběru:
Komentáře k příspěvku (Atom)
96 komentářů:
Vašku, ty tři fotky bohatě stačí. To musela být nesmírná kráááása.... Mě by stačilo jen to ráno na vysoké holi :-))), protože zbytek musela být fakt fuška, ale někdy bych si to rád vyzkoušel na sněžnicích.
Krásná akce. Zajímalo by mě hned několik věcí. V jakém termínu jste tam byli,tedy spíš tady, protože bydlím v Koutech, vlastně pod Mravenečníkem z druhé strany. Já jsem strávil tři dny ve vaších liduprázdných kopcích v čase silvestra, právě silvestrovskou noc jsem přečkal pod skalním převisem na hřebeni mezi Medvědím vrchem a Pytlákem. Skalní bivak Kraken je někde tam poblíž? Petr
Byli jsme tam tuším 27/28.12...Bylo to opravdu dokonalé:). Převis mezi Pytlákem a Medvěďákem by mohla být tzv. Zelená komnata (skalní měsečko, zelený lišejník). Kraken je necelé dva km odtud, více v údolí, nedaleko Solné boudy. Vašek
Vašku,milujeme stejný kraj...a naše myšlenky co v něm poletují se musely už tolikrát potkat. Snad se potkáme i my na necestách po horách .
Janula
p.s. srubík jak vlaštovčí hnízdo pod Medvěďákem na cestě ze Solné do Vrbna znáš? Je Zlatohoráků.
Bonjorno, vetrny.blogspot.com!
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